PROLOGUE

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Surfers call them clicks. Waves they sense instinctively before they can be seen or heard.  Winners trust their clicks and get in position, dropping in on the beginning swell and taking even the biggest monsters on a ride. Then there are the rest of us. We wait; jump on at the wrong time. Best case, we hang on. Worst, we’re sent crashing to the ocean floor trying desperately not to drown.

The ocean never clicked for me. Not like it did for my brother, or my grandmother, or the many ancestors who’d come before.  Still, they expected me to commit for life, guarding the ocean and the land, just because I was first born. I wanted none of it.  But I let them train me so that I could win the Surf Carnival and get the heck out of town.  

So I begged the universe for clicks, and when they came, fast, furious, I couldn’t catch them fast enough. These waves weren’t tricks to be tamed. They were warnings from the universe that everything would change. But I didn’t listen with my heart or trust the messaging to stop the disasters before they came.

It got so bad that even when I wasn't in the water, I felt like I had drowned.

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